Zinfandel: California’s First Heritage Grape

Before Cabernet Sauvignon ruled California, there was Zinfandel, says Mira Advani Honeycutt, California’s original, heritage wine grape

Deep-hued and robust yet soulful, lush on the palate, ringing with a brambly compote of plums and blackberries, heightened with surprising hints of licorice, peppercorns and spice, Zinfandel was California’s original heritage wine grape.

Wait a minute. Why is Zin a California or American grape? Most popular vitis vinifera plants in the US came from specific parts of Europe — Cabernet Sauvignon from Bordeaux, Pinot Noir from Burgundy and so on. Zinfandel on the other hand didn’t arrive in the 19th century with any origin story.

In the mid-1800s, the Gold Rush era saw many German and Italian immigrants flocking to northern California. They brought along vine cuttings. Early plantings of Zinfandel were often done in the form of a field blend, with smaller quantities of varieties such as Alicante Bouschet, Carignane and Petite Sirah.

But where did Zin come from? Many wine historians believed the colourful Hungarian Count Agoston Haraszthy brought Zinfandel cuttings to the US in the mid-19th century and planted them at the Buena Vista winery in Sonoma, California.

One of the chief detectives was Croatianborn Mike “Miljenko” Grgich, the late legendary winemaker and founder of Napa Valley’s esteemed Grgich Hills Estate winery established in 1977. When Grgich first arrived in Napa in 1958, he went to work at Souverain Vineyards where he noticed the Zinfandel vines. The berries, canes and leaves looked familiar, reminiscent of his father’s vineyard in Desne; they resembled the Plavac Mali grapevines. He was convinced that the California Zinfandel was the same variety as the Croatian Plavac Mali. Grgich knew that Croatians had owned vineyards in California from the 1850s, so someone could have brought the cuttings during that time.

Grgich, who died at age 100 in 2023, would often tell me about his research on Zinfandel. He began his research in 2001 in collaboration with Dr Carole Meredith, ampelographer and professor at the University of California at Davis. They made several trips to Croatia and worked with the University of Zagreb, Croatia.

After several studies and tests, the mission was accomplished, confirming that Zinfandel was in fact the same as the Croatian variety Tribidrag, also known as Crljenak Kaštelanski (parent of Plavac Mali). This confirmed Grgich’s long-standing belief that Zinfandel originated in Croatia, a fact now rooted in California’s viticultural history.

Grgich’s fondness for the variety led him to plant 21.5 acres of Zin in Napa Valley’s Calistoga AVA on a vineyard dating back to 1889. “We believe it was almost 1889,” said Luke Jeramez in a phone conversation.

Grgich’s great grandnephew, in charge of the winery’s marketing, Jeramez further added that 2.5 acres of the vineyard are planted with original St George rootstock and wine produced from this site is bottled as “Miljenko’s Old Vine Zinfandel”. He also planted two acres of Crljenak Kaštelnaski; its small 200-bottle production is sold only at the winery.

According to the 2023 California Grape Report released by the USDA’s Agricultural Statistics Service, Zinfandel comes in third with 37,947 acres planted, while Cabernet Sauvignon leads with a whopping 95,638 acres planted. Pinot Noir comes in second with 46,608 acres planted.

Among California’s many noteworthy winemakers, there are a few who have played a significant role in the resurgence of Zin; legends like Joel Peterson of Ravenswood Winery in Sonoma, Paul Draper (of Ridge Vineyards) who uncovered ideal Zin sites in various California AVAS and Larry Turley of his eponymous wineries in Napa, Paso Robles and Amador.

Zin is grown in more than 50 counties in California. However, a handful of appellations are known as prime Zin regions producing a selection ranging from large value-driven wines to small mom-and-pop artisanal ones. There’s the high-octane brambly style from Amador, Sierra Foothills and Mendocino; Sonoma County’s bright-fruit Zin from its Dry Creek Valley; and a lower-alcohol, spice-ringed Zin from the Russian River Valley.

However, Lodi (pronounced Lo-dye), the self-proclaimed Zin Capital of the World, produces nearly 20% of California’s Zin planting. Located around 90 miles east of San Francisco, Lodi is known for its bold, fullbodied Zins. It is home to some of the oldest plantings, dating back to 1888, with several predating phylloxera, and are planted to its original rootstocks. Such low-yielding old vines consistently produce high-quality wine.

Kyle Lerner took some time off from Zin harvest for a phone chat. “Lodi has one of the highest concentrations of old vines dating back to the 1800s,” said the winemaker of Harney Lane Winery in Lodi, a family’s vineyard planted in 1907. Zin is resilient as it is genetically built to last, Lerner noted. “It’s one of the few varieties we grow that has longevity.”

Are any of Lodi’s Zin vineyards being turned over to Cabernet?

“We are focused on holding on to old plantings,” replied Lerner. “They have pedigree and history.” The 90-plus wineries in the area are mostly family-owned and multi-generational so Lodi growers recognize the value of old plantings. Fifty years is the minimum age to be considered ‘old vine’ by California’s Historic Vineyard Society.

Rajat Parr is among those vintners committed to producing wines from historical sites. His Scythian Wine Company brand is focused on heritage vineyards especially around Los Angeles in the Cucamonga appellation. The small 200-case production of The Scythians Zin is sourced from Lopez Vineyard planted in 1918, that has struggled in desert-like conditions, yielding only half-a-ton per acre. Yet, they are “super happy,” Parr commented on the original dry-farmed, head-trained vineyard, when I met him at the busy crush pad at his Stolo winery in Cambria. At 12.5 % alcohol, the Zin showed the purity of old vines with a seductive elegance.

The Paso Robles wine region (where I reside) is another Zin-zone, tracing its roots back to 1882. Turley is one such winery. “We are one of the few original vineyard snot exposed to phylloxera,” stated Malani Anderson, manager at the Paso Robles winery location. She was referring to Ueberroth, the un-grafted, head-trained vineyard which is planted on the site which dates back to 1885
with initial Zin planting. Although 85% of this vineyard site has been replanted over the years, the property is handled with gentle care to avoid contamination.

“We don’t allow any equipment,” she explained. “Everything is done by hand and only two caretakers stay on the ranch. Even boots are changed when going into the vineyard.”

There’s a timelessness to Turley’s nuanced and layered Zins. A tasting of the 2022 vintages showed cherry notes from Pesenti Vineyard, a peppery taste from Amadeo’s Vineyard, both from Paso and Lodi’s light hued Zin from Steacy Ranch Vineyard.

The Dusi vineyard is another of Paso Robles’ heritage vineyards dating back to 1923, the oldest continuously-owned family Zin vineyard. “I am a farmer’s daughter; I grew up on a 100-acre Zinfandel farm,” said fourth generation Janell Dusi when I met her at her tastefully appointed J. Dusi winery.

Dusi family’s prized Zin is sought out by many winemakers along the central coast, including Ridge Vineyards, clients since 1967. J.anell, who decided to get into winemaking, started at the age of 13 as a garage winemaker. She officially established her winery in 2006.

Paso Robles is known for its dark, plummy Zins, yet Janell knows to rein in the fruit’s audacious boldness. “I love that there’s so much fruit going on but I keep it at bay. I want to show you what four generations of work that has gone into the soil tastes like, its purity and a little bit of terroir in a glass,” she said, while pouring the 2021 and 2022 vintages of the flagship J.Dusi Zins.

Zin has been on a roller coaster of highs and lows in recent years, as many winemakers seek to dial back the high-octane approach. Yet die-hard Zin-fanatics continue their allegiance to this hedonistic wine that conjures up the romance of old vines focused on vitality and a naturally balanced, concentrated wine.

Lately, millennials and Gen Z’ers are discovering Zin as a “new wine,” said winemaker Robert Biale. “It’s one of the alternative wines in Napa and the younger generation is excited about it,” mused the founder of Robert Biale Vineyard in Napa Valley’s Oak Knoll District. “Even the younger winemakers are excited about Zin as an alternative variety.” When Cab-fatigue sets in, most visitors are delighted to discover Zin.

Napa’s first Zin vineyard was planted in the 1850s by Joseph Osborne, which no longer exists, explained Biale. However, among Napa’s oldest remaining vineyards is Old Kraft Vineyard planted in 1891. “We bottle the single vineyard from this historic vineyard.”

Biale family’s 25-acre, mostly Zin vineyard was planted in 1937 and has been replanted over time. Their 15 bottlings of Zin are produced on the estate and fruit is sourced from other appellations in Napa and Sonoma. “Our vision is to preserve Napa Zin, perfecting classics like Zin,” Biale said.

Adventurous Zin-zealots can explore these regions by following the California Zinfandel Trail designed by Zinfandel Advocates and Producers (ZAP), an organization dedicated to Zinfandel preservation, education and appreciation (www.zinfandeltrail.com).

So Zin-fanatics, mark your calendar for National Zinfandel Day celebrated on the third Wednesday of November. Uncork your favorite bottle and go ahead and zin-in good health.