North Indian flavours celebrated at Loya, Taj Mahal Palace Hotel

Loya at the Taj Mahal Palace Hotel, Mumbai, is the third Loya restaurant to open after Delhi and Bengaluru

A recent dinner at the Taj Mahal Palace hotel in Mumbai was transformed into an extravagant display of skill as a young sommelier gripped a wine bottle with flaming hot tongs, deftly brushed on a coat of ice-cold water and severed the neck, preventing the aged, fragile cork from falling into the wine. It was then poured out through a double sieve. The wine was Les Pagodes De Cos 2014, a Taj Mahal Palace private label and a vintage worthy of the ceremony it inspired.

The Port Tongs ritual is one among the many flamboyant experiences that Sommelier Arth Jain creates when you dine at Loya.

“We’ve done candle lit decantation for vintage wines to filter out the sediments, and I use the Durand corkscrew to neatly open wine bottles where the corks might be fragile,” says Jain. “At Loya and The Chambers we can do the Port Tongs ritual because we have a flambé trolley and other tools.”

The restaurant’s décor sets the mood for a leisurely lunch or dinner. Grand arches, stone sculptures, intricate motifs, and paintings lend warmth to the space. Serene water bodies inspired by Himalayan springs, and logwood furniture create a relaxed atmosphere. The bar, with cascading water and the rugged charm of stone and glass, is a special attraction. The arefully set tables, colourful upholstery, and the brass wall plates and lanterns reflect the richness of Indian fabrics and crafts.

The restaurant at Mumbai’s Taj Mahal Palace is the third Loya after Delhi and Bengaluru. Loya (a term commonly used by tribal shepherds who, after a long journey come together and say “Chalo, loya karte hain”) is inspired by the heart of North India, and draws from the flavours of remote communities in the foothills of the Himalayas, Punjab, Delhi, Uttarakhand and Kashmir. The aim is to bring together long-preserved culinary traditions in a rich tapestry of flavours, beautifully plated and presented. Imagine a dessert served in a dainty jewellery box!

A glass partition allows guests to watch the chefs at work in the kitchen, while certain dishes are finished at the table, enhancing the overall dining experience for guests. while certain dishes are finished at the table, enhancing the overall dining experience for guests.

Each course reflects the country’s diverse culinary heritage, highlighting hidden treasures of Indian cuisine with authentic, carefully preserved recipes. The first course, Pella Swad, celebrates the vibrant flavours of the North with dishes like Loya Chaat and Maash ki Tikki, and a melt-in-the-mouth split black urad dal kebab, sweetened with dates and complemented by raw mango chutney. Dal Ki Chaat is served with a crispy paratha, topped with a drizzle of chilli oil and garlic nibs for an extra burst of flavour. From the grill, the chef recommends the Shinwari Murg — chicken cooked with ground spices, tomatoes and fenugreek leaves; Sigdi Macchi — smoky, perfectly cooked Indian salmon; and Timbri Jheenga — prawns marinated in a mix of shrub seed and served with bhang jeera chutney.

The second course, Loya Ki Khaas, offers guest favourites like the Shakahari Saanjha Kebab, and the Gosht Ke Lazeez Pasliyan, a musttry for meat lovers. An interesting combination is the Kathal Baingan Bharta, a smoky blend of eggplant and jackfruit, while the Kangra Khodiya Gosht showcases a popular Pahadi mutton curry enhanced with ground, charred walnut ink. The Kala Moti Gucchi Pulao, a black gram and Kashmiri morel pulao, serves as the perfect side dish for rice lovers.

With a passionate sommelier in charge of the wine programme at Loya, wines constitute 42% of the beverage sales, which is remarkable considering there are some delectable cocktails and beers on offer too. The selection of wine is impressive ranging from around the world, but Loya also gives due recognition to domestic wines, not just by classifying them as “Indian” but by categorising them according to the regions where the grapes are grown. “We want to showcase the best of India and the concept of ‘terroir’ is important. A wine from Igatpuri, for instance, will be different from one made in Akluj,” says Jain.

The Indian wine list includes wines by Fratelli, GroverZampa, Sula and Vallonné, neatly covering a range of grape varieties which Jain presents proudly to his guests, both Indian and international wine lovers. He brings out the Vallonné Anokhee Grand Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 2019 for guests from around the world as an example of how good Indian wines can be.

On Loya’s international list are vintages such as the Jean Baptiste Lebrieul “Corton Charlemagne” Grand Cru 2016, Château Latour 2004 and Château Margaux 2003 — a beautiful blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. The 2003 vintage saw a hot summer, leading to an early harvest with lower yields, but concentrated flavours, says Jain, producing a wine of great intensity, which is why it’s on his list. Along with high-quality boutique producers, Jain also picks commercial favourites to keep the list well balanced with ample wines in stock.

“Indian food needs to be paired carefully, unlike European food which can be paired with wines from around the world. In European cuisine, the sauce, the protein and the cooking method determine the choice of wine. But certain styles of wine go very well with Indian flavours too,” notes Jain. He pairs a medium-bodied Sangiovese and all types of Syrah with rich meat dishes and a South African Chenin Blanc with the subtle flavours of fish.

However, more delicate wines such as a Loire Valley Chenin Blanc or a Chilean Chardonnay may not be able to stand up to the rich flavours of Indian cooking. The Louis Latour Morgon Cru Beaujolais pairs well with Loya’s Chakki Paneer, for instance, while the precious Faustino I Gran Reserva Rioja is recommended for Attari Chicken or tandoori dishes. The Saint Cosme Côte-Rôtie 2018 from France’s Northern Rhône Valley is the sommelier’s pick for dishes such as the Chapli Paratha or minced mutton kebab with flaked paratha.

Other drinks on offer showcase the art of mixology with the Himalayan Mule which features lemongrassinfused vodka, basil limoncello and ginger beer. Gulab is a rose-cardamom vodka concoction paired with pineapple juice and a citrus-rose mist, and the unusual flavours of mulethi infused gin with hoya citrus and a honeycomb tuile or wafer, is a must-try for gin lovers.