M. Chapoutier, The Legacy of a Dynasty

Ashika Mathew traces the story of M Chapoutier, a dynamic wine dynasty that has stood the test of time.

The legacy of a dynasty can be a heavy burden to carry forward as progressive generations break with tradition, often with no alternative plan, divide holdings or leave the industry altogether. Families where each successive heir has not only sustained but enhanced the family legacy are rare and have much to be admired for.

One such dynasty was founded in 1808 as ‘Calvet et Compagnie’, which really came into its own in 1897 when Marius Chapoutier joined the company, then owned by Rodolphe Delehine, and it became known as Delepine et Chapoutier, exporting Rhône Valley wines to Holland, Switzerland and Germany. With the passing away of Delepine in 1922, and then of Marius in 1937, the next Chapoutier, Marc took over the business and in 1955 renamed it, giving it the name it still bears today: M Chapoutier. Each successive generation expanded on the company’s holdings and portfolios, introducing a company ethos that is still adhered to.

Michel, the current custodian of the Chapoutier legacy has elevated the company into one of the world’s most admired French wine brands

Michel, the current custodian of the Chapoutier legacy, joined the company in 1989 and took over in 1990. While widening the company’s reach to countries as far apart as Australia and Portugal, he has elevated it into one of the world’s most admired French wine brands.

The Rhône Valley is a deep valley cleft through hills of varying altitudes, with a moderate continental climate in the north and a Mediterranean climate in the flatter south. The best vineyards of the Northern Rhône are planted on slopes with a southerly aspect and are home to many premium wines. Syrah, the only red grape variety permitted, produces powerful red wines. The Southern Rhône vineyards have to contend with more ferocious heat and the mistral wind. Here, Grenache dominates thanks to its ability to withstand high temperatures. The wines are often complex blends mainly comprising Grenache, Syrah Mourvedre, Cinsault and Carignan, although in theory 13 varieties in total are permitted by the appellation.

An impressive range of wines are produced from the fabled appellations of the Rhône Valley such as Côte Rôtie, Saint-Joseph, Cornas, Hermitage and Condrieu in the north, while the south produces the notable Gigondas, Vacqueyras, Rasteau and Châteauneuf-du-Pape among others. However, the predominant production of the south remains the Côtes du Rhône appellation. M Chapoutier has vineyards in every appellation and produces wines across his portfolio, which is divided into categories according to a self-styled quality ladder corresponding to price.

The Tradition range showcases what would be called Village wines, blended from holdings within the specific appellation. The Prestige range is taken from single vineyards. Further up the ranking comes the Excellence range which are the best of the single vineyards. And at the very top is the Fac et Spera wines which are from the domaine’s oldest vines, produced in tiny quantities and a rare pleasure.

The point is that M Chapoutier has the Rhône covered like a beautiful quilt spread across the charming undulations of the French countryside. And there isn’t a wine that isn’t worth trying. For a student of Rhône Valley wines, it is invaluable to be able to study the various appellations from this one producer because the wines are made in such a singular style. If there is a ‘house style’ which runs through all of the wines it is a muscular, mineral, granite backbone, overlaid by the floral, meaty or voluptuous character of an individual vineyard.

M Chapoutier has the Rhône covered like a beautiful quilt spread across the charming undulations of the French countryside

The passions that drove Michel Chapoutier at the beginning of his career are still the same. In the most basic terms, it is the holy of trinity of grapes, soil and climate. He has a deeply held belief regarding the terroir of all his holdings and is passionate about letting each one express itself fully. This was the genesis of his selection parcellaires implemented very early on in his career, focusing not just on a single variety but single plots.

Allowing full expression to nature and working in harmony with the land was the motivation for moving to biodynamics, which at the time in the late 1980s was revolutionary for a company of M Chapoutier’s size. Most producers of the biodynamic style were viticultural smallholders. Michel Chapoutier set out on a mission to show what could be achieved at scale. He believes biodynamic work in the vineyard is what gives the vines resilience to cope with recent climate extremes. This has also translated into minimal intervention in the winery and is part of an ongoing programme of research and innovation that has included bioresonance which uses electrodes to measure the electrical currents of the vines.

He does not believe in innovation for its own sake, however, eschewing the emulation of New World wines back in the 1990s when sweeter, fruit-driven styles were flying off the shelves at the expense of canonical French wines. He simply pushed to make his own wines with more purity, believing in their essential beauty to lure consumers back. And they did come back as the vogue for this assertive style retreated in favour of a more balanced and nuanced expression. Winemakers from the Old and New Worlds learnt from each other and the best ones collaborated and grew in appreciation of each other. There is more fruit expression coming from better vineyard management in Europe and more confident terroir expression coming from less reliance on winemaking tweaks in the New World. Balance finds a way, especially when aligned with humility.

Michel has consistently been disruptive and innovative and is not afraid to explore and share knowledge with new, young winemakers and growers. This gives him a relevance that is not only based on his illustrious career but in his continuing push to study and drive excellence. He is not limited to table wine either, having embraced the fortified wines of Banyuls, collaborated with Champagne Devaux and makes liqueurs at Maison Trenel in Beaujolais, as well as giving his children the freedom to make their own explorations.

Maxime, Michel’s son, after travelling the world has brought his own vision of how to reveal terroir. He is at the helm of beer production, One Shot – a French barley Pilsner made in his native Drome with organic ingredients. And a gin, Sothis – made from spring water sourced from an ancient village in the heart of the Ardeche volcanic basin. The botanicals come from the Rhone corridor and the geological focus of both reveals Maxime’s apple hasn’t fallen far from Michel’s cart.

It is Mathilde, Michel’s daughter, though who is more involved in the day to day management of the business. She too has been encouraged not only to travel widely but to bring her own personality and interests, forging ahead with new production beyond the Rhone. Her passion for Spain has driven the success of the Ribera del Duero project, Dominio del Soto as well as Chateau des Farrages in the Côtes de Provence. She has created her own label under the umbrella of the M Chapoutier brand designing the evocative Compass Rose as its symbol.

All of the many wines which nest within the family are made with the same attention as the flagship wines of the Northern Rhone. The heartland of the family and some of the most beautiful wines
anywhere. The jewel in the crown is the Hermitage but all of them offer sophisticated drinking pleasure that is reliable. And that is what makes M Chapoutier so special – equally at home at a family mid-week table or in a white tablecloth restaurant.

Well, that’s not all of course. It is Michel who has been synonymous with the success of the brand. He says of himself that he likes primitive art and tête de veau (peasant food). But he’s more complex than that. He is also an intellectual, an innovator, and an adventurer. He embodies what has become a family motto: Fac et Spera – Do and Hope.

FACT FILE
VBev is a prominent importer of international wine, beer and spirit brands including wines from M Chapoutier (France), Wente (California), Santa Margherita and Zenato (Italy), Cava from Codorniu, Riojas from Vina Pomal (Spain) and Ventisquero and Monte Pacifi co (Chile), to mention just a few. The M Chapoutier wines available in India follow —

CHÂTEAUNEUFDU- PAPE “LA
BERNARDINE”PRICE: `10,900
Colour: intense crimson-red.
Nose: complex and subtle, blackcurrant and plum followed by
roasted coffee and cinnamon, cherry, morello cherry.
Palate: opening into spicy (liquorice) and fruity aromas.

CÔTES DU ROUSSILLON VILLAGES LES
VIGNES DE BILA-HAUT PRICE: `2,700
Colour: deep garnet red.
Nose: aromas of black cherry.
Palate: this wine is fleshy, well structured with the warm
and savage of soils.

CROZESHERMITAGE “LESMEYSONNIERS”
ROUGE PRICE: `5,390
Colour: very intense purplish red.
Nose: red fruits, blackcurrant and raspberry,
followed by violet aromas.
Palate: ample and round, final of stewed fruits and vanilla.

BELLERUCHE CÔTES DU RHONE
BLANC PRICE: `2,990
Colour: pale yellow and limpid.
Nose: green apple, hawthorn and white
blossoms, citrus aromas and exotic fruits.
Palate: fresh and well-balanced, lot of fatness and length.

BELLERUCHE CÔTES DU RHONE
ROUGE PRICE: `2,990
Colour: garnet red.
Nose: aromas of red fruits (mainly morello
cherries) and spices (liquorice, grey pepper).
Palate: this wine has a great structure with firm
and silky tannins.

MARIUS BLANC VERMENTINO
PAYS D’OC PRICE: `2,190
Colour: brilliant and pale yellow with green tints.
Nose: citrus aromas and notes of grapefruits and ripe fruits.
Palate: broad and fruity on entry. Lovely aromas of ripe fruit,
enhanced by a nice acidity, giving the wine good length on the palate.

MARIUS ROUGE GRENACHE SYRAH
PAYS D’OC PRICE: `2,190
Colour: red, purple, dense, clear with deep purple glints.
Nose: powerful, complex, dark, spicy,
red berries, delicate floral touch.
Palate: powerful, concentrated and structured attack
with a tinge of silky tannins. Red fruit aromas.

All Prices mentioned are for Maharashtra.