Julien and Courtney Asseo – A Perfect Culinary Marriage

The union of a winemaker’s son and a butcher’s daughter not only resulted in three beautiful children but also two acclaimed California restaurants, writes Mira Advani Honeycutt

Courtney and Julien Asseo, owners of the Michelin honoured Les Petites Canailles, a farm-to-table restaurant with a French accent, recently opened S’Aranella, which offers a vibrant Spanish tapas menu. Conveniently, they are two blocks apart. Both restaurants are located in the picturesque downtown of Paso Robles, a fastgrowing wine region tucked midway between Los Angeles and San Francisco. While Julien commands the kitchens as chef, Courtney oversees all administrative duties, including accounting, managing special events and guest relations.

Les Petites Canailles (French for “little rascals”, a nod to the three Asseo children) opened its doors in 2019. S’Aranella followed this year. Both are popular with weekend visitors and serve as hangouts for Paso winemakers. In 2022, Les Petites Canailles (LPC for short) received its first Michelin recommendation. “It was a great surprise,” Julien told me then. “It’s always nice to be recognized for what you do, especially from Michelin.” LPC has maintained its Michelin honour through 2024. More accolades followed. LPC received Wine Spectator’s “Best Award of Excellence” in 2023 and 2024, and Wine Enthusiast’s “Top 50 Restaurants” honour in 2022.

Julien, a Bordeaux native, draws on his French heritage but sidesteps the traditional classic style. “We brought a fresh take on how French food can be influenced by Central Coast fusion with a modern twist. We’re not in Paris or Burgundy; we are in California,” he noted.

Born in Libourne, France, Julien spent his early years in California when his family moved to Paso. His father Stephan Asseo, a pioneer in the Paso wine community, founded L’Aventure winery in 1998. Inspired by Paso’s renegade spirit, Stephan saw no reason not to blend Bordeaux and Rhône varieties in crafting rich, bold blends of Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah, which soon became the hallmark of Paso blends.

After his teen years, Julien moved back to Bordeaux and studied at the at the Lycée Hôtelier de Gascogne, followed by a two-year stint in Paris. “It was a beautiful experience, but you don’t make a lot of money,” he mused.

A few cooking experiences in Los Angeles didn’t last long, however, this is where he met Courtney, originally from North Carolina. She was a server in a restaurant where Julien worked. “It was love at first sight,” he recalled, which meant he and Courtney moved to Las Vegas together when opportunity knocked. “Yeah, it was definitely a big step in my career,” said Julien. The couple were exposed to the Vegas glitz, glamour and the culinary experience of hotels and casinos. “Las Vegas really helped me become the way I am today.”

Working for four years as a sous chef for noted culinary master Joel Robuchon led to Julien’s executive chef position at The Restaurant at Guy Savoy in the renowned Caesar’s Palace. Meanwhile, Courtney worked behind the bar at Todd English and later became the bar manager at noted restaurateur Daniel Boulud’s DB Brasserie.

All these experiences for the Asseos culminated in two “foreign” food restaurants in Paso, with their second restaurant, S’Aranella, serving as a Spanish counterpart to LPC’s Frenchaccented fare.

I recently followed up with Julien during a phone chat while he was on a drive. In addition to running two restaurants, he also advises as a culinary consultant to The AVA, a 150-room luxury hotel scheduled to open soon in downtown Paso. The chef celebrates the local bounty of California’s Central Coast while tapping into his previous experience in fine dining with luminaries such as Joel Robuchon and Guy Savoy. His is an approachable mix of casual ambiance and elevated dining.

“I think we have set a certain standard at LPC, and we have been able to carry that over to the opening of S’Aranella,” Julien explained.

Both restaurants were designed by Courtney assisted by Yvette Chaix. The 60-seat LPC decor is modern with a playful vibe. The hanging monkey lights symbolize their children, explained Courtney. “We want guests to feel as if they are in our home and we are throwing a party.” Julien’s old chef jacket from Guy Savoy restaurant hangs proudly above the kitchen door, and the Krug-bottle theme serves as a nod to Julien’s appointment as Krug’s Ambassador Chef.

The dining experience begins with a bite of a warm gougère, elevated with a caviar service or a spread of local Central Coast cheeses. Moving on to appetizers, there’s the steak tartare made with Australian Wagyu hanger steak and Leeks à la Plancha, a restaurant staple (and my favourite).

Julien’s Gallic touch is ever-present in entrées such as Moules-Frites Hortense, Confit Duck Leg, Beef Cheek Bourguignon and Steak au Poivre. The ever-changing menu includes dishes ranging from Kurobuta Tomahawk Steak to a Dry-Aged New York Prime Rib. Delicious side dishes include cauliflower in Vadouvan spice (a French curry spice known to have originated in Pondicherry) and “Joel Robuchon” Pomme Purée.

The classic Mamoune’s crème brûlée and Mousse au Chocolat round out the decadent desserts. Then there’s the “Trust Us” category – a six-course tasting menu based on chef Julien and his team’s inspiration. Julien added: “We keep pushing the boundaries. The tasting menu changes every other week, and we are continuing to grow the wine programme.”

Ah, yes, about that impressive wine list, it has a whopping 1,000 wine labels. The priciest? A 750-litre bottle of Domaine du Comte Liger-Belair “La Romanée” Grand Cru, 2019 priced at US$11,000. “We only have one because that’s all we could get (through allocation),” Julien informed. No takers yet for this prized bottle, but having such a bottle might impress a discerning diner.

Wine director and manager Dayton Saunders took me on a tour of LPC’s multiple cellars, from the large display case in the dining room to the three underground cellars stocked with iconic bottles of Grand Cru and Premier Cru Burgundy and Champagne as well as First Growth Bordeaux; plus California cult wines and prized Pinot Noirs from Oregon’s Willamette Valley.

The extensive list also includes wines from France’s Jura, Jurançon, Savoie, the Loire and Rhône regions, as well as selections from Germany, Italy, Hungary, Austria and South Africa. Plus, there’s the Asseo family list of the L’Aventure portfolio from Paso Robles itself and wines from Julien’s two brothers-in-laws, Benom and Clos Solène, both, Rhônestyle wines also produced in Paso.

While high-end wines sell once or twice a week, the popular range is between $120 to $250 and they are mostly French. “We have more French options and typically I sell more of Champagne,” said Dayton. Both red and white Burgundies make up half of the 1,000 labels as they are more popular with diners.

As for Bordeaux wines, those priced between $100 to $150 move quickly. “Anything above that doesn’t, but with Burgundies, people will spend $200 to $300,” Dayton observed. Higher priced wines, Dayton noted, are considered a long-term investment – “They grow in value.”

“At the end of the day it’s also a personal commitment,” explained Julien. “I truly love wine. I do this from a passionate standpoint and so it’s a choice.”

“The inspiration comes from my love of Spain,” Julien added, recalling family vacations, especially in the Catalan region. “It’s just so rich and different.” The Mediterranean influence on the region’s food made an impression on him. Now with S’Aranella, “it seems very fitting that I wanted to do a Spanish concept; it almost feels prewritten.”

In designing S’Aranella, Courtney was inspired by Cadaqués beach, a second abode for Julien’s parents. The black-and-white mural of the village, once home to the likes of Salvador Dali, serves as a striking feature. “I wanted it to have a sexy Spanish feel, while keeping it Paso-casual,” she explained. “And Julien wanted to have a real Matador bull head,” she said, referring to the life size artifact which hangs above the bar.

An instant hit from day one, the 55-seat S’Aranella, captures the true spirit of a tapas-style restaurant. Pintxos (snacks) come in the form of Croquetas, enhanced with saffron aioli (with a choice of ham or mushrooms), an elaborate service of Charcuteria or Quesa de España, a selection of Spanish cheeses. In the tapas section, there’s the Aja Blanco, an ethereal chilled garlic soup with blue crab; Carxofa, crunchy, crispy bites of artichoke; and Gambas al Ajillo, garlicky prawns. Among the main dishes, Australian Wagyu beef and whole Branzino are popular choices, while the star is the traditional paella, prepared with seafood, vegetables or chicken and rabbit chorizo.

There’s an array of cocktails, and General Manager and Assistant Wine Director Alex Wolfe has curated a price friendly wine list starting at $50 going up to $500. The extensive, Spanish-focused list includes selections from regions such as Priorat, Rioja, Rias Baixas, Jumilla, Méntrida and Bierzo.

Although running two restaurants is a hectic and stressful profession, for Julien and Courtney, it’s a lifestyle of choice. “You have to be able to accept that, most of the time, you will be working when most people are off,” admitted Julien. “It’s intense.”

Yet it’s a constant reminder that the Asseos, with their culinary team, are doing something special. “You’re making people happy,” Julien affirmed. “You’ve got a real purpose in life, but, yeah, you know the sacrifices.”