Early Start, Endless Quest for Indian sommelier

Indian sommelier, Harnil Mathur is Associate Director of Wine with Black Sheep Restaurants in Hong Kong, overseeing multiple beverage programs. Raised in Gujarat, his journey into wine began very early on. He became the youngest Indian to pass the Certified Sommelier exam at 20 and has since achieved the Advanced Sommelier certification at 24, alongside earning the French Wine Scholar diploma with highest honours and an MBA in Wine & Spirits Business from the Burgundy School of Business. Recognised in 2024 by the Association de la Sommellerie Internationale (ASI) as one of the world’s rising sommelier talents, Harnil passed the Master Sommelier Practical Examination in 2025 and aims to complete the Theory and Tasting components this year. Meanwhile, he is actively engaged in judging, mentoring, and driving quality, consistency, and innovation across the group.

Harnil Mathur speaks to Reva K Singh about his journey in wine, his motivation as a life-long learner, and the future of wine in India

You are highly qualified and yet you haven’t stopped studying, what got you hooked on wine at such an early age?
I came from a background where alcohol wasn’t part of everyday life, so my introduction to wine was entirely professional rather than cultural. When I first encountered it during my hospitality studies, I was struck by how intellectually rich it was. Wine sits at the intersection of geography, history, science, and human craftsmanship. That complexity drew me in immediately. What has kept me hooked is that wine is a lifelong pursuit. The more you learn, the more you realize how much there is still to understand. There is no finish line. My motivation comes from that constant evolution, whether it’s refining my palate, deepening my understanding of a region, or preparing for the Master Sommelier examination. It’s a discipline that rewards curiosity and humility in equal measure.

Tell us something about Black Sheep Restaurants. What is the most important part of your role as Associate Director of Wine?
Black Sheep Restaurants is one of the most dynamic hospitality groups in Asia, known for its diverse portfolio of restaurants and strong focus on storytelling through cuisine. Each concept is distinct, which makes the wine program both challenging and incredibly rewarding. As Associate Director of Wine, my role spans across curating wine programs & lists, training sommeliers, driving beverage strategy, and ensuring that each restaurant’s wine offering aligns with its identity. The most important part of my role is people, both our guests and our teams. For guests, it’s about creating memorable experiences through thoughtful recommendations. For the team, it’s about mentorship and education, helping young sommeliers and the F&B team to grow in confidence and knowledge.

What are the requisites of a good sommelier in your opinion?
Technical knowledge is essential, but it’s only the foundation. A great sommelier needs emotional intelligence, adaptability, and genuine hospitality. First, you need to be able to read a table, understanding what a guest wants, often before they articulate it. Second, communication is key. The best sommeliers simplify complexity; they don’t overwhelm guests with jargon. Third, humility is crucial. Wine is vast, and no one knows everything. Finally, a good sommelier must have a sense of generosity. This profession is about giving – sharing knowledge, creating experiences, and making people feel comfortable and inspired.

How do you view the future of wine at a time when alcohol is seen as harmful to health?
This is one of the most important conversations in the industry today. The future of wine will be shaped by moderation, mindfulness, and inclusivity. We’re already seeing a shift towards lower-alcohol wines, smaller pours, and a growing interest in non-alcoholic alternatives. Rather than resisting this change, I think the industry needs to embrace it. At its core, wine is about culture, connection, and gastronomy, not just alcohol. While the non-alcoholic movement is an important reflection of our current moment, I see it as part of a broader evolution rather than a replacement. In the long run, I think wine and alcohol will continue to hold their place strongly, coexisting alongside non-alcoholic options as consumer preferences find their balance again.

I also believe sommeliers have a responsibility to lead this transition. Offering thoughtful non-alcoholic pairings or alternatives doesn’t diminish the wine experience, it enhances it by making it more inclusive.

How much importance do you attach to wine and food pairing? Do you have any favourite wine and food matches?
Wine and food pairing is central to what we do, but it shouldn’t be rigid. The goal is to enhance the dining experience, not to impose rules. Great pairings can elevate both the dish and the wine, creating something greater than the sum of its parts. That said, personal preference always comes first – there’s no “perfect” pairing if the guest doesn’t enjoy it.

Some of my favourite combinations tend to be rooted in balance and contrast. For example, a high-acid white Burgundy with a rich, buttery dish can create beautiful tension. I also enjoy unexpected pairings like off-dry Riesling, where the interplay of sweetness and acidity brings harmony to bold, layered flavours. A great example of this is a Kabinett style of Riesling from Mosel, Germany, which works exceptionally well with Hyderabadi chicken dum biryani and it remains one of my personal favourite pairings.

Although we are drinking more wine than ever before, India is lagging behind China and Japan in wine consumption. Why is that?
India’s trajectory is unique. Unlike China or Japan, where there has been significant government support or long-standing cultural integration of alcoholic beverages, India faces structural challenges, high taxation, complex regulations, and limited accessibility.

There’s also the cultural aspect. In many parts of India, alcohol is still viewed with caution, which naturally slows the development of a wine culture.

However, I see tremendous potential. The younger generation is more curious, more exposed to global trends, and more open to experimentation. Indian cuisine itself is incredibly diverse and offers exciting possibilities for wine pairing.

I believe the growth will come through education, accessibility, and the development of a strong domestic narrative around wine. It may be slower compared to other Asian markets, but it will be meaningful and deeply rooted when it happens.