Blaufränkisch around the River Danube

Elizabeth Gabay delves into the history and different iterations of Blaufränkisch, an iconic red wine grape, one of Austria’s most loved

The first World War heralded the end of the Hapsburgs’ Austro-Hungarian Empire, an empire which inherited the crown of the Holy Roman Empire, and which more or less controlled vast swathes of central Europe.

The empire encompassed the lands of modern-day Czechia, Slovakia, Austria, Hungary, southern Poland (Galicia), western Romania (Transylvania), Slovenia, Croatia, Bosnia and much of northern Italy, including the Alto Adige down to Venice. The town of Trieste on the Italian-Croatian border was the empire’s main port and the Istrian coast was the empire’s riviera.

The capitals of Vienna in Austria and Budapest in Hungary, both on the great Danube river, were two of the great cultural cities of Europe. They had Balls where dancers twirled to the waltzes of Johann and Richard Strauss and Franz Liszt; grand, bejewelled cafés with chandeliers and mirrors serving a delicious range of cakes: rich chocolate Sacher Torte (cake) from Vienna’s Hotel Sacher; Hungarian Dobos Torte, created by confectioner József Dobos in 1884; rich, layered Esterházy Torte, named after the wealthy gourmand-aristocrat Prince Esterházy. The café culture of these cafés saw gatherings of intellectuals: artists, writers, philosophers and scientists.

The red grape at the heart and soul of Central Europe is today known worldwide by its Austrian name Blaufränkisch, although most plantings (nearly three times more than Austria) are in Hungary, where it is known as Kékfrankos. Both names mean the same — Blue Frankish (Kék means blue). On the Austrian and Hungarian borders, there are small but significant plantings in Czechia and Slovakia, where it is called Frankovka Modra (French Blue), or, more usually, just Frankovka. From the Austrian town of Lemberg the variety moved to Germany, where it is called Lemberger.

In 1777, Austrian ampelographer Sebastian Helbling listed the variety as Schwarze Fränkische (Black Frankish), as one of the best red grape varieties of Lower Austria. The variety was first mentioned in Hungary in 1890, when it was called Nagyburgundi (big Burgundy) and used for fine red wine. Its silky tannins remind some of Pinot Noir, others note the spiciness similar to Syrah, while I find the blend of fresh red fruit and dark blue berries reminiscent of Cabernet Franc.

Despite its name “Blue French”, the variety’s origins appear to be firmly rooted in the Austro Hungarian Empire, probably in Lower Styria in Slovenia, with the “French” moniker referring simply to the high quality of the variety. DNA profiling shows it to be descended from Gouais blanc

Austria
Always highly regarded, it’s only in the past 20 to 30 years that we have seen a resurgence of Austria to star wine status. Following the 1985 diethylene glycol wine scandal (when adulteration increased sweetness and alcohol) Austrian producers strove for high quality wine and concentrated, full-bodied Blaufränkisch, often oaked, started to appear.

Today 5.8% (just over 2,500 ha) of Austrian vineyards are planted with Blaufränkisch, making it the second most popular red variety after Zweigelt. The vast majority is planted in Burgenland where it represents 93% of production. Ripening is aided by the dry warm winds blowing from the east across the Pannonian plain and the sheltering influence of the surrounding hills. Blaufränkisch is the flagship variety in Südburgenland (Eisenberg), Mittelburgenland (known as “Blaufränkischland”) and Leithaberg.

In 2002, the Districtus Austriae Controllatus (DAC) appellation system was created and Mittelburgenland created three levels used for their Blaufränkisch: 1. Classic fruity and spicy, aged in large oak barrels or steel tanks sold from 1st of May following the harvest. 2. Wines indicating a specific origin have to be aged in large oak barrels or used barrique and can be sold from the 1st of September following the harvest. 3. The premium level is Reserve with the wine aged in large oak barrels or new or used barriques. It can only be sold from the 1st of January of the second year after harvest.

Blaufränkisch can also be found in the neighbouring Neusiedlersee region where the climate is warmer. It is also a key variety in the new DAC Carnuntum where winery owner, Dorli Muhr is based. Muhr is active in promoting Kékfrankos across borders, gathering together producers to show their wines, including through the United Nations of Kékfrankos organisation.

Hungary, Czechia and Slovakia
The variety’s ability to make fresh vibrant reds at high volumes sealed its fate during the Communist era when high yielding clones and mechanisation helped to produce high volumes. Following the fall of communism in 1993, there was a dramatic change with vineyards returning to private ownership. Big concentrated reds made with largely international varieties became fashionable, with Kékfrankos generally being a more restrained elegant red.

Today it is the most widely planted variety in Hungary, cultivated on almost 7,300 hectares, with the main areas of production being Sopron at the southern end of lake Fertő (Neusiedlersee) on the border with Austria. It is also cultivated in Szekszárd in southern Hungary, where it is one of three flagship wines entitled to use the Szekszárdi bottle — the blended Bikavér with a minimum of 45% Kékfrankos, 100% Kadarka and, significantly 100% Kékfrankos. And the third most significant region is along the northern mountain range of Hungary with the two adjacent regions of Eger and Matra. Eger also uses Kékfrankos as a major part of its Bikavér blends.

In Czechia the main growing region is Moravia in the south, near the border with Austria and Slovakia, and in Slovakia the variety can be found along the Small Carpathian hills near the border with Moravia and along the southern border with Hungary on the northern shore of the Danube River.

With climate change the quality of Frankovka is becoming bigger and bolder. Clones and terroir make for strikingly different wines and work on clonal selection has made a dramatic impact on the development of the wine style. Traditional Hungarian clones seem to emphasise the restrained elegance, but a growing number of producers are now planting Austrian clones with their bigger more full bodied ripe fruit. With increasingly hotter vintages, the variety’s naturally fresh acidity is proving to be a valuable asset. It has also meant that with the bigger fruit there are more producers using new oak, creating richer, more fruit forward wines.

From big commercial producers, to an increasing number of small independent winemakers, to a fascinating array of natural artisan producers, the growing popularity in this variety (Blaufränkisch in Austria) is showing no signs of abating. Examples are appearing in Japan, southern Spain, America and Australia… and probably, even as the print dries on this article, more will have appeared.